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SunSurfer last won the day on February 21

SunSurfer had the most liked content!

About SunSurfer

  • Rank
    An aesthetic carver


  • Location
    Southern Hemisphere
  • Occupation?
    Poison & paralyse people
  • Current Boards in your Quiver
    Ten boards between 160 & 180cm, 1995 to 2017 builds.
  • Current Boots Used?
    Modified UPZ RC10S. A pair of standard boots is just the start of the fun!
  • Current bindings and set-up?
    Regular stance. Models: F2 & Bomber TD3 Intecs. Isocline plates, both DIY design/builds and BBP 4mm, with UPM & 4x4 pattern, ride with fixed axle front. Experimenting with stance distance & skwal style stances.
  • Snowboarding since
  • Hardbooting since

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  1. Dan Yoja has his Spring Sale on. I got my pair of UPZ RC10s from Dan, good fit using mondo sizing. Just purchased & received a pair of Intuition mouldable liners from these guys in Edinburgh via TradeMe. The original liners from the UPZs fit reasonably well, but I ended up getting a blister type injury on my rear leg shin after intensive riding with them. I have a wide forefoot and narrow heel. The UPZ shell shape suits me better than the Deeluxe series that Jim Callen @ Bomber will happily sell you a pair of. Both Dan Yoja and Jim Callen will ship stuff direct to NZ. You may be better off finding something second hand, boots and/or board, from someone in the Bomber For Sale section, or post a want ad. NZ Post has an American post restante address from where they will forward stuff to NZ.
  2. There are a number of threads on Bomber on using ski boots for carving snowboards. The writers mention a number of different brands and models. Again, TradeMe is your best place to look. Very occasionally, a pair of hard snowboard boots will appear on TradeMe. The sole length will be the determinant of whether a set of bindings can be adjusted to fit them. Are you familiar with the mondo sizing system? It's the most consistent way of finding something the right size for your feet. You'll need to know the length of your longest foot.
  3. Would get you up and going, a board and a pair of older SnowPro bindings. The 10m sidecut would get you making reasonable radius turns with moderate edge angles. Might find you need to make your own wedges to lift the rear heel and front toe. I've done that with my SnowPro Race bindings. Mt Hutt, there's at least one carver there who has appeared in Hutt's publicity photos for first chair of the season a couple of times. Read the tech articles for new riders on Bomber and spend some time doing the drills on the green slopes. When you carve a turn properly there is no polishing off of speed, so you can end up going very fast in a very short time. I found that trying to learn to properly carve on steeper slopes led to me skid/carving turns in order to control my speed. As I improved I could get higher on edge and tighten up the turns to control my speed.
  4. Hey Lee, there are Kiwi carvers here. Keeping an eye on the Trademe listings is a great way to pick up gear (boards, bindings and boots) cheaply. I've got quite a few boards in my quiver that way. I won't be bidding on the Oxygen cause I have too many boards in that kind of SCR range. Best of luck. My riding plan for the winter is quality rather than quantity, a week at Cardrona & TC in late August. Finding other carvers in NZ is finding whanau. The few I've come across have been happy to ride together and pass on tips.
  5. When equipment and rider/pilot become one, then instinctive boarding/flying becomes possible. And yes, it will be "kick ass"! When equipment is not set up properly and foundation skills are not mastered, this gets in the way of the instinctive, instant response riding most of us crave. Both sides of the coin are necessary, precision and feel, black & white, yin and yang.......
  6. That way lies the board kicking your butt! Unless I am totally focused in the moment, feeling the edge through the soles of my feet, feeling the balance through all my proprioceptive sense, and leaving the world completely behind.......
  7. Knowing the angles, and integrating that with a knowledge of body & joint motion geometry, and riding style, will help to make the direction of the small incremental adjustments rational, rather than random. Knowing the angles helps experienced riders give useful advice to people just starting out, because the number of variables in binding setup makes the range of possibilities enormous, and frustrating, and uncomfortable, unless you have a reasonable idea of where to start. (This is a long way from replacing Palau liners :) )
  8. Anyone measuring binding toe/heel lift and/or canting on a mounted binding needs to take into account the slope created by the surface the board is resting on, and the camber and the thickness profile of the board, and make sure their slope meter (of whatever sort) is properly zeroed. Otherwise, GIGO rules.
  9. Couple of questions will help make your needs clearer. How well established is your riding stance i.e. angles, distance, toe/heel lift and canting? Some bindings are more adjustable if you have not got yourself sorted there. Do you understand the trade offs between Intec heel bindings and standard bail bindings? You can spend a lot or a little. I have a pair of F2 Intec Race bindings I bought second hand for not much that have lasted very well. If you're just getting started, spending less until you can answer your question above all by yourself is not a bad idea. Welcome to Bomber. Look around, learn how to use the Search function, you've already found the Review section, there's plenty more in the general Carving Central forum threads on bindings.
  10. Five useful ideas at the end of the piece for your off-season endurance training.
  11. Nate, which plate broke front/rear? And where did it break? Photos? All useful info for vigilant riders, and Bomber for future machining runs.
  12. You, and your connective tissue, were 6-8 years older. You don't mention anything about the loading that may have been placed on said feet and how that may have changed over the years as well. Growing older is a pain in the neck, & feet. Our bodies change, they don't stay the same.
  13. Fin: Michelle:
  14. Toe pad spacer is also made from the broken TD3 baseplate. The threaded holes in it have been drilled to 6mm so that the screws go directly into the baseplate. Unless the screws loosen I don't think it's going to wander. Thanks for the heads up on the slot head screws, will source hex head countersunk screws of the appropriate length for heel & toe.
  15. TD3 heavy metal. Base plate might just be indestructible now.